Tarawera Eruption

We are in the Taupo Volcanic Zone, in the New Zealand section of the Pacific "Ring of Fire", where the Pacific Tectonic Plate meets the India-Australia Tectonic Plate....earthquake and volcano territory! This zone features relatively shallow depth - only a few kilometers below the surface is where large masses of molten rock reside.

Mt. Tarawera has erupted five times in the last 18,000 years, most recently in 1886. Causing major destruction and significantly changing the landscape, this most recent outbreak initiated a new region of surface hydrothermal activity...native forest has since regrown naturally and is the only extant example in New Zealand of a bio-system re-establishing in an area following its complete destruction by a volcanic eruption.

As we walk through the Waimangu volcanic valley we are struck by the fragrance of the sweet flowers and ferns, underlaid by the sulfuric smell of the hot pools. The forest is lush, and filled with birdsong. We know there are many native birds here, such as the Korimako (Bellbird) and the Matuku (Bittern), but we don't see them, only hear their delicious songs.

Nothing has been planted by humans in this forest...birds, wind, and the eruption itself have deposited the seeds and spores here, and this accounts for the exotic species that are present along with the native species. The volcanic eruption deposited new soil up to 20 meters thick throughout the valley. All of the new plants developed tactics to cope with heated soils.

In hydrothermal areas, many different kinds of bacteria live in dense mats together with blue-green algae. Patterns created by these carpets of minute plants enhance the beauty of the termal areas with vivid splashes of contrasting colors - dark blue, greens, browns, pinks, reds and orange. The most conspicuous growths are formed in overflow paths below the hot springs and geysers with neutral or alkaline water chemistry.

We discover that the Maori used many of the plants here for both food and medicine. The rahurahu (bracken fern) yields its underground stems for food. This was the most sustaining nourishment for warriors and had the added advantage of being light to carry. The toe-toe's fluffy seed heads were applied to wounds to stop the bleeding. The koromiko was used as a muscle relaxant to facilitate labor, and also to promote healing of rashes and abcesses.

It is wondrous to wander through this landscape of fumeroles, boiling lakes, spouting geysers, and seemingly solid rock walls that are really calcified ash. Later, as we drive through the larger area, we see grass-covered landscapes of bumps and ridges that we surmise are deposits of ash from the eruption that now are fertile and support the large sheep industry. We see the tiny lambs scampering up the hills in play.

Today we will experience the hot springs that abut Lake Rotorua, and tonight a Maori display of dancing and story telling, as well as a traditional Hangi feast cooked in the ground. Can't wait for the lamb and sweet potato, as well as the Haka!