Waiheke is charming and fertile...lots of orchards, vineyards, sheep and cattle, oysters, clams, vegetable gardens. Although a small island of 8,000 people full time (which jumps to 35,000 in the summer), Waiheke boasts several gourmet restaurants, some attached to vineyards; several art galleries; a film festival; a writing festival; a sculpture walk; two charming small towns...all amidst a stunning natural landscape of rolling hills, dramatic cliff drops to the ocean, and gorgeous bays.
Waiheke Island
Jumping into a new time zone, after breakfast we immediately go to Whakanewha Beach to dig for clams for dinner. When you understand that the Maori sound 'wh' is pronounced 'f', you'll understand why all Americans get such a kick out of the name of this beach!
At low tide, you merely dig into the sand with your hands and always come up with 5 or 6 clams. They are small yet, but quite delicious when Carlo prepares them this evening with a simple white wine, garlic, and parsley sauce. We are really tickled by the fact that we can see the Auckland skyline while up to our knees in the warm water of the bay!
We lunch at Te Fau, a winery/restaurant, while gazing out at cattle on the rolling hills. I have venison, which is outstanding.
Friday morning we drive around the island and see a beautiful piece of land where Anne and Carlo will build their home. It sits on a beautiful bay, where there are two oyster beds. There are 16 bee hives on the property, as well as a perfect spot for a vegetable garden. The children pull the rowboat beyond the mudflats and fish for snapper. Then we have another lunch at another vineyard restaurant, also delicious. Matteo falls off a small cliff and suffers a concussion, so lunch is cut short and we go to the emergency room. He comes home the wounded warrior, with big scrapes on his cheek and knee, and a chipped tooth.
We are invited to a local party and meet so many interesting New Zealanders. Many have lived on Waihiki for 20+ years. Mary tells us that Waihiki has been a sanctuary for many families over the years...even the Rothschilds came here in 1880 and have maintained a cottage here since. There are also many people from other countries...Italy, Germany, Holland...so even though a tiny island, quite cosmopolitan.
Saturday morning the weather has changed dramatically, and it is grey, rainy, very windy and gusty, and there are whitecaps visible from the house. When it clears in the afternoon, Anne and I take the children to the town beach. The waves are large, and apparently not usually so. The surfers are out! The water is freezing but Luca, Arianna, Isabella and I brave it and jump and splash in the waves for a good 40 minutes. Refreshing!
Sunday morning is still windy, but we take a wonderful walk along the coast, which dips down into the bush where we see bright orange flowers, and back up to the top of the cliffs overlooking the water. There are huge Pakahaweka trees that grow right out of the cliffs.
That night we take the ferry back to Auckland, eat yet another meal at the hip "The Depot" restaurant (why does hip always mean uncomfortable stools to sit on?) which includes lots of local oysters, and leave for Rotorua the next morning.
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