Ambryn Island, Vanuatu

Children and Mothers of Ambryn

Ambrym is an island in the archipelago of Vanuatu (formerly known as the New Hebrides). It is well known for its highly active volcanic activity that includes lava lake formation. It is the fifth largest island of this country. Several times per century, Ambrym volcano has destructive eruptions. The summit of the volcano contains a desert-like caldera which covers an area of 100 square kilometres (39 sq mi).

Like many islands in Vanuatu, Ambrym has its own Austronesian languages. In the north is the North Ambrym language, in the southeast is the Southeast Ambrym language, in the south the Dakaka language, and in the west Lonwolwol and in the southwest Port-Vato language. These are all spoken by a few hundred to a few thousand speakers each.  These are some of the few languages in the world into which the Bible has never been translated. I contrast this with the ubiquitous presence of Christian missionaries here, whom many of the islanders resisted; instead continuing in their own animist tradition. Also, in case I haven't mentioned it, this is the area of the world where cannibalism has been extensive, right up until the early 20th century (1930s).

We snorkeled over rich black sand. Lively coral, a spider feeder, a nudibranch, an octopus.  Then I swam to the beach, where there were several hot spots in the water. A 104 degrees Farenheit  river poured into the ocean...muscle soothing, relaxing, floating between hot and cold.

John and I had lunch with Olinne, a customs inspector who had come on board. She is 46 years old, has 5 children, and a high school education. Her daughter is attending the University of the South Pacific, whose main campus is in the main city of Vanuatu. Coincidentally, Olinne comes from a family of seven, 5 girls and 2 boys, just like my family, and her birthday is January 27 (mine is January 21).

After lunch we were invited into a village to observe a male dance. Surrounding the near naked dancers, who wore only penis gourds and some leaves stuck into the back of their belts, were fantastical triangular masked creatures. All the dancers stomped, stomped, stomped in unison, so powerfully that the earth shook.

Rich coral in Ambryn

Nudibranch

Shipmate enjoying the hot spring off the black sand beach

The sacred Rom Dance

Rom costumes made from banana leaves and banana-fiber mask

The story behind the origin of the dance is this: A young girl made the costume and mask to entice the boy she liked. He killed her, stole the costume, shared it with his mates, and created the dance which no women are allowed to dance. How do you like that? Our resident anthropologist explained later that there is a strong division between the female and male realms here, and that the male desire for ritual and secrecy is based on jealousy of what the woman can do - create men!

The whole time we were in this little village, it was pouring rain. The dance was performed in the rain. I might as well have swum back to the boat.