Sunday, March 15, 2009

Pitcairn Island

Not geographically, but in all other ways, Pitcairn Island is one of the most remote spots on earth. The 60 inhabitants, 48 born there, 12 from away, live a communal life style where all contribute to the upkeep of the community as a way of paying taxes. They are visited by a supply boat only two times a year, and make do with local materials for building needs, food, etc. Everyone has a garden and everyone fishes. About 8-10 cruise ships visit a year, between the months of December and March, and this is a much looked forward to event.
Rather than landing on the island, which has a very tiny bay and tinier entrance, the Pitcairners come out to the ship. They bring their openness and friendliness, their woven baskets and handcarved wooden animals and canes, abalone jewelry and honey. The bees live in one special grove on the island, and the honey is delicious!
I have never met a people so open, and eager to share their lives. 39 islanders came on board - only the schoolteacher and the children stayed ashore. They ranged in age from 15 to 95. All climbed aboard and off the ship via rope ladder - even the 95 year old was agile. Their long boat is deep - all items are stowed on the bottom, then flat boards are placed on top of the goods and this creates the seating area. As I watched the islanders depart the Mariner ship I could see the love and cooperation they show each other as everyone is helped into the longboat. I could also see the genetic inheritance of seafaring, as their bodies move in rhythm with the two moving ships, and there is a stability and a lightfootedness which combined handle the rolling of the sea with grace.
Everyone is proud of their Mutiny inheritance, and proudly proclaim themselves descendants of the mutineers of the ship HMS Bounty. There are only 9 surnames in the village: Christian, Warren, etc. I spent a long time speaking with Dennis Christian, who is a 7th generation descendant of the infamous Fletcher Christian. They are up to the 9th generation on the island now. Naturally there are some very distinct facial characteristics among the people, coming from the English sailors and their Polynesian partners. There is a swarthy look, a Polynesian look, and a sort of red-headed, freckled look as well.
Before departing, the islanders sang some songs for their visitors. One was an original song about Pitcairn Island written by a local in 1966, simply beautiful, and another was "In the Sweet Bye-and-Bye", one of my favorites. I don't know why, but I cried as these people went home. I cried for their isolation, their openness, their caring for one another. They seem so strong and resilient. I want to come back someday and spend more time here. The only way to get here is by boat.

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