Kennedy and Ghizo, Solomon Islands

This morning we come to an atoll configuration, with several reefs ringing several islands. One of these islands is now known as Kennedy Island, because this is where the young John F. Kennedy and his crew clung to life after the destruction of their ship, the PT-109.  In fact, he and his crew members first wrecked up on another island, which had no water, and no shade. After some time there, they realized they could get to this 'perfect' island, with a shaded interior of tall trees, and most importantly, water. The sailors on board, told us, however, that there was some difficulty in the swim, because, the narrow neck of the channel between the reefs causes strong tidal surges. If you mis-time your swim, you could be swept out to open sea. I wonder if all the crew men were swimmers, or some had to be dragged by their crew mates.

We spent the morning on this island, which is so tiny, you can literally swim around it in about 15 minutes. The interior is lovely and shaded, and I had the good luck to see a large red parrot. 

Honiara, Solomon Islands

A crowded, dirty port. We wait a long time for a berth...lots of dangerously overloaded ferries and decrepit tanker type ships are all vying for space. Many have folks on them with their fruits, vegetables, and fish for market...they have tarps draped all over the rigging to make shade from the hot sun. 

We disembark, and board a bus which takes us to Bloody Ridge, where young American, Australian, and New Zealand servicemen gave their lives while trying to keep the Japanese from the nearby Henderson Airfield. This, now lovely area overlooking grassy hills and a beautiful wide river, was once the site of ongoing battles to gain and lose land, by inches, literally. What marks the spot is a shabby cement "memorial", lounged upon by three young local children.

We then go to Henderson, where you can still see the original wooden 'conning' tower built by the U.S. Marines. The airport is now used for regular air travel. Nearby is a memorial garden commemorating those who gave their lives...this is where I realized so many of the soldiers were from Australia and New Zealand as well as the U.S. The garden is shaded, quiet, somber. There are many small crosses...some for individuals, some for entire units.

On the way back to the ship, we stop at the local market. There are booths and booths, and tables, of fruit, the ubiquitous betel nut, and all kinds of fish. It is packed and has to swivel one's way through the mass of people. Like every day so far, it is pouring rain, and people have pushed themselves against the walls so they are under shelter. I am looking at an array of small, bulbous, shapes that look sort of like sea urchins without the spines, when I realize they are crabs, that have had their legs torn off! Whether this is to keep them from running away, or in order to sell the bodies and legs separately, I don't know. They are arranged quite artistically, in pyramidal shapes.

I am sad today, just thinking about all those barely trained young men who got sent into an alien landscape of extreme discomfort, and were killed.


As I did not bring my good camera on this trip, I would like to send you to Zegrahm's official blog of this trip. The expedition staff are all accomplished photographers, and you will see the images I would like you to see here. 
www.zeco.com/travelreports